In the Hudson Valley, we love our trees, which makes the decision to remove a tree difficult sometimes. It’s an easy decision if a tree is clearly diseased or dying, and constitutes a risk to human life and property.
But what if your tree is healthy? It’s possible that if your tree is too close to your house that it is causing moisture issues that can threaten the foundation of your house. This is especially true in the Hudson Valley, which has an older housing stock than most regions and has a lot of rainfall; preserving too much moisture next to your house can cause long-term issues.
Looking to trim or remove a tree that’s close to your house? Give Expert Tree Service a call at (845) 331-6782 to schedule a consultation..
The Hudson Valley’s Soil Characteristics by Town
The first consideration about trees, moisture and proximity to your home is soil.
In Kingston, for example, there is a mix of moderately well-draining soil like loams in upland areas, and poorly draining silt or clay soils in flat areas. In Poughkeepsie, there’s generally good drainage due to a mix of loam and silt loam.
In Saugerties and Catskill, the eastern lowlands have heavy, silty and clayey soils with slow drainage, while higher ground has loams with moderate drainage.
If your soil doesn’t drain well, it means that a tree could block out the sun and prevent it from drying out, which could pose long-term issues for your home.
The Hudson Valley’s Housing Stock by Town
| Town | Median Construction Year | Built 1939 or earlier | Built 1940–1949 | Built 1950–1959 | Total Pre-1960 Homes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Kingston | 1938 | 54.1% | 6.1% | 13.5% | 73.7% before 1960 |
| Poughkeepsie (City) | 1952 | 39.3% | 9.0% | 10.0% | 58.3% before 1960 |
| Saugerties (Village) | 1938 | 55.2% | 6.2% | 8.0% | 69.4% before 1960 |
| Catskill (Village) | 1938 | 56.6% | 2.3% | 14.9% | 73.8% before 1960 |
The housing stock in all four communities that we’re focusing on is considerably old, with a large share built before 1960.
The Hudson Valley’s Rain Totals and Freeze-Thaw Cycles
The Hudson Valley has a humid climate with precipitation throughout the year. In recent years, we’ve had as little as 33 inches of rain (2020) and as much as 50 inches of rain (2023).
Rain, combined with poorly draining soil and a tree close to your home, can amplify the importance of freeze-thaw cycles which can cause frost wedging in masonry as water freezes, expands, and then thaws.
In recent years, we’ve averaged around 110 freeze-thaw days a year.
How Close is too Close for Trees?
With all of this in mind, it’s recommended that trees should be the following distances from your home:
- Small Trees (under 30 foot tall) – 10-15 feet away
- Medium Trees (30 to 70 foot tall) – 15- 20 feet away
- Large Trees (70+ foot tall) – 20 -40 feet away at minimum
These distances will help prevent moisture and structural problems. Large tree roots seek water and can exploit foundation cracks or plumbing if planted too close. Overhanging limbs can drop excessive water near the foundation and abrade the roof in wind. By following the above spacing, homeowners can enjoy shade benefits while minimizing risk. It’s also wise to avoid planting directly over septic fields or too near sidewalks/driveways (to prevent uplift from roots).
Soil quality and drainage also matter: in wet soils, roots may stay shallow and spread farther laterally.
When It Makes Sense to Remove a Tree Proactively
Based on everything we’ve covered, here’s our conclusion about when you should consider removing a tree proactively:
- When it’s too close to your home the roots may cause damage and the canopy may trap moisture (depending on the tree size)
- If soil around the foundation is damp or heaving – if you see moss, algae or puddling around the perimeter, mud that never dries, cracks or shifts in basement walls, or visible roots in foundation cracks.
- If it’s a high risk species – some species are inherently problematic near foundations. Silver maples, willows, poplar all have aggressive roots. Softwoods like spruce or fir have shallow roots and dense shade. Large oaks have huge canopies and root systems.
- If the tree is leaning or the soil has shifted.
Bottom line: if a tree is close, downhill, deep-shading, or on wet clay soil, removal is usually the smart long-term move, especially near older homes. Once it’s gone, you can replant smarter: farther out, with smaller native trees that are less aggressive and better adapted to our region.




