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When should you trim your trees? When should you remove one? The answer isn’t the same for every situation, but the Hudson Valley’s distinct seasons give us a natural framework. Each time of year offers specific advantages for different kinds of tree work, and specific risks if you get the timing wrong.

This guide walks you through the full year, season by season, so you know exactly what to prioritize and when. Whether you’re maintaining a mature sugar maple, deciding what to do about a storm-damaged oak, or simply trying to keep your yard safe through another Hudson Valley winter, you’ll find actionable advice here.

Season-at-a-Glance

Winter (December–February): The Best Time for Tree Removal

If you need a tree taken down, winter is often the ideal window. Here’s why.

Frozen Ground Protects Your Yard

Heavy equipment like cranes and chippers can tear up a lawn in soft, wet conditions. When the ground is frozen or dry, there’s far less rutting and soil compaction. Your yard comes through the job in better shape, and you avoid the cost and hassle of repairing landscaping damage in the spring.

Dormant Trees Are Easier to Work With

Without leaves, branches are lighter and the tree’s structure is completely visible. Our crews can see exactly where to make cuts, identify weak points, and plan the safest felling path. It’s also easier to spot signs of internal rot and decay when there’s no foliage masking the trunk.

No Garden to Worry About

Surrounding plants are dormant too, so there’s no risk of falling branches crushing your perennials, flower beds, or vegetable garden. And once the tree is down, you have months to plan spring landscaping for the newly open space.

Get Ahead of Storm Season

Scheduling removal in early winter means the hazard tree is gone before the heaviest snowfall and ice storms hit. Kingston averages 42 inches of snow per year, Catskill gets 44, and Pine Plains can see over 52 inches. Removing a compromised tree in December beats dealing with it after it falls on your roof in February.

Winter is also a practical time for major pruning of dormant deciduous trees, especially structural cuts that reshape the canopy. The tree won’t bleed sap excessively, and healing begins as soon as the growing season starts in spring.

Spring (March–May): Post-Winter Assessment and Corrective Pruning

As the snow melts and temperatures rise, it’s time to get outside and evaluate what winter did to your trees.

Post-Winter Inspection

Winter storms can cause invisible structural stress, such as cracked limbs, weakened branch attachments, frost splits in the trunk. Walk your property and look for broken or hanging branches, new cracks or splits in trunks and major limbs, and any new lean or root upheaval that wasn’t there in the fall. Catching these issues early prevents them from becoming emergencies once the canopy fills in and hides the damage.

Corrective and Formative Pruning

Early spring, before buds break, is ideal for corrective pruning: removing damaged branches, reshaping young trees, and improving canopy structure. The tree is about to enter its most active growth phase, so wounds heal quickly and the energy redirects into healthy new growth.

Timing Matters for Flowering Trees

If you have ornamental cherries, dogwoods, magnolias, or other early bloomers, wait until after they flower to prune. Cutting before bloom removes the flower buds. For everything else, oaks, maples, ashes, birches, early spring pruning before leaf-out is the sweet spot.

Pest Monitoring Begins

Spring is when invasive pests emerge: spongy moth caterpillars, woolly adelgids, aphids, and borers all become active as temperatures warm. Inspect for egg masses, cottony deposits, and new holes in bark. Early detection is the difference between saving a tree and losing it.

Summer (June–August): Light Maintenance and Vigilance

Summer is not the time for heavy pruning or removal—unless there’s a safety emergency. Trees are in full growth mode, and major cuts during this period stress them significantly, opening wounds that attract pests and disease in the warmest, most humid months.

What to Do in Summer

• Light trimming: thin out small branches to improve airflow and sunlight, especially around walkways, roofs, and power lines
• Monitor for stress: watch for wilting leaves, brown edges, early leaf drop, or dead branches that didn’t recover in spring
• Water deeply during drought: the Hudson Valley regularly sees dry spells in July and August—consistent deep watering is critical for stressed trees
• Mulch properly: apply 2–4 inches of mulch around the base (not piled against the trunk) to retain soil moisture and protect roots from heat
• Feeding: consider professional tree feeding services to replenish nutrients depleted by heat and dry soil

What to Avoid in Summer

Don’t remove more than small branches unless a tree poses an immediate hazard. Heavy pruning in summer weakens the tree’s defenses at the worst possible time. If you discover a major problem, like a large dead limb over your driveway, or a tree leaning toward your house, call a professional for targeted removal rather than attempting broad pruning.

Fall (September–November): Preparation and Prevention

Fall is the Hudson Valley’s last window to prepare your trees for winter, and it offers one major advantage: once the leaves drop, you can see everything.

Hazard Limb Removal

With the canopy bare, dead branches, weak forks, and crossing limbs become visible. Removing these before winter storms arrive eliminates the risk of them snapping under snow or ice load and falling on your home, car, or power lines.

Cabling and Bracing

If you have a structurally compromised tree that you want to preserve—maybe it’s a historic oak or a shade tree you’ve enjoyed for decades, fall is the ideal time for cabling and bracing. These support systems reinforce weak branch attachments and reduce the risk of failure under heavy winter loads.

Disease Control

Pruning during the late dormant season (late fall into early winter) helps control disease. Many fungal pathogens are less active in cool weather, so pruning wounds are less likely to become infection sites. Removing dead or diseased wood now stops the problem from spreading when warmer temperatures return.

Mulch and Root Protection

Apply a fresh layer of mulch around the base of your trees before the first hard freeze. This insulates roots, locks in moisture, and buffers against the freeze-thaw cycles that can heave soil and damage shallow root systems.

Understanding Different Types of Tree Trimming

Not all trimming is the same, and the right approach depends on the tree’s age, species, and condition.

Crown Cleaning

The most common type: removing dead, dying, or diseased branches. This improves appearance, reduces falling-limb hazards, and prevents disease from spreading deeper into the tree. Appropriate any time of year when safety requires it.

Crown Thinning

Selectively removing interior branches to improve airflow and sunlight penetration through the canopy. This reduces wind resistance (lowering storm damage risk) and helps prevent fungal problems caused by trapped moisture. Best done in late winter or early spring.

Crown Raising

Removing lower branches to increase clearance beneath the tree for walkways, driveways, mowing, or sightlines. Works best on younger trees; removing large lower limbs from mature trees creates slow-healing wounds.

Crown Reduction

Reducing the overall height or spread of the canopy by cutting back to lateral branches. Used when a tree has outgrown its space or when heavy limbs need shortening to reduce weight. Best performed during dormancy.

The 25% Rule

Regardless of the type of trimming, never remove more than 25% of a tree’s canopy in a single season. Over-pruning stresses the tree, triggers weak water-sprout growth, and can cause a decline worse than the problem you were trying to fix. Professional arborists plan their cuts to stay within this limit.

When You Shouldn’t Wait for the Right Season

Seasonal timing is ideal, but some situations demand immediate action regardless of the calendar:

• A tree or large limb has fallen on a structure, vehicle, or power line
• A tree is leaning noticeably more than it was, especially after a storm
• You hear hollow sounds when tapping the trunk, or see mushrooms growing at the base
• Large dead limbs hang directly over areas where people walk, play, or park
• A storm has left hanging or partially broken branches (“widow-makers”) in the canopy

In these situations, call for emergency service immediately. Expert Tree Service offers 24/7 storm response across Ulster, Dutchess, Greene, and Columbia counties.

Schedule Your Tree Service at the Right Time

Expert Tree Service has been helping Hudson Valley homeowners care for their trees since 1936. Whether you’re planning a winter removal, a spring pruning, or just want a professional opinion on what your trees need this season, we’re here to help.

Call us at 845-331-6782 to schedule a consultation, or reach out anytime for 24/7 emergency storm response.

The trees across Ulster, Dutchess, Greene, and Columbia counties are under siege from insects and plants that didn’t exist here a generation ago. Emerald ash borers have killed virtually every ash tree in some towns. Hemlock woolly adelgid is working through our hemlock groves. Spongy moths (formerly gypsy moths) defoliate thousands of acres in bad years. And the spotted lanternfly is expanding into our region, drawn by the invasive ailanthus trees already growing on many properties.

As a tree service company that’s been working in the Hudson Valley since 1936, we’ve watched these threats arrive one by one and accelerate. This guide covers the major invasive pests and plants affecting our area, how to spot them, and what you can do to protect your trees, or know when it’s time to call for professional help.

Emerald Ash Borer: The Pest That Wiped Out Our Ash Trees

The emerald ash borer (Agrilus planipennis) is a small, metallic-green beetle that has devastated ash tree populations throughout the Northeast since arriving from Asia around 2002. It reached the Hudson Valley around 2010, and in many of our communities the damage has been catastrophic.

The beetle’s larvae bore beneath the bark and feed on the tissue that transports water and nutrients, effectively cutting off the tree’s circulatory system. A healthy ash can go from fine to dead in just two to three years after infestation.

Local Ash Tree Mortality Rates

According to monitoring data from the Ecological Research Institute, the ash borer has caused staggering losses across our region:

These numbers tell the story: in many Hudson Valley communities, the ash borer has killed nearly every ash tree. The result is thousands of dead or dying standing trees that pose falling hazards to homes, vehicles, and people below.

How to Spot an Ash Borer Infestation

• D-shaped exit holes in the bark (about 1/8 inch wide)—the signature sign
• Canopy thinning starting at the top of the tree
• Bark splitting with S-shaped tunnels visible beneath
• Increased woodpecker activity (they feed on the larvae)
• Epicormic sprouting—new shoots growing from the trunk as the tree tries to survive

What to Do

If you have ash trees and you’re in one of the high-mortality zones listed above, get them inspected soon. A certified arborist may be able to treat early-stage infestations with insecticide injections, but if the canopy has already thinned significantly, removal is likely necessary. Dead ash trees become brittle quickly and are extremely dangerous to take down without professional equipment.

Hemlock Woolly Adelgid: A Slow-Motion Threat to Our Hemlocks

The hemlock woolly adelgid (Adelges tsugae) is an aphid-like insect that feeds on the sap of hemlock trees. Unlike the ash borer’s rapid kill, the adelgid works more slowly, but just as lethally over time. It’s been confirmed throughout Dutchess, Ulster, and Greene counties, with over 200 reports in the iMapInvasives database.

How It Works

Adelgids attach at the base of hemlock needles and feed on stored starches. The tree gradually weakens, losing needles, producing less new growth, and becoming vulnerable to drought and other stresses. Without intervention, an infested hemlock can decline over three to ten years.

How to Identify It

Look for small white, cottony masses (about the size of a cotton swab tip) clustered at the base of needles on the underside of branches. They’re most visible in late fall through spring. If your hemlock has thin, grayish foliage with visible dieback at the branch tips, adelgid may be the cause.

Treatment Options

Unlike the ash borer situation, adelgid-infested hemlocks can often be saved if caught early. Systemic insecticide treatments (soil drenches or trunk injections) can be effective, and biological control agents are being studied and released in some areas. However, severely weakened hemlocks near structures should be evaluated for removal, as they become increasingly brittle and prone to failure in wind events.

Elongate Hemlock Scale: The Double Threat

Working alongside the woolly adelgid in many areas is the elongate hemlock scale (Fiorinia externa), an armored scale insect that attacks hemlock needles. It has been reported primarily in western Ulster County (50 confirmed reports), and when combined with adelgid infestation, it accelerates hemlock decline dramatically.

The scale feeds on needle tissue, causing yellowing, needle drop, and progressive dieback. Trees fighting both adelgid and scale simultaneously rarely survive without professional intervention. If your hemlocks show needle loss combined with both the white cottony adelgid masses and tiny dark oval scales on the underside of needles, the tree is under compounded stress and needs immediate evaluation.

Spongy Moths (Gypsy Moths): Cyclical Devastation

Spongy moths (Lymantria dispar, formerly called gypsy moths) are a recurring problem in the Hudson Valley that peaks every few years when warm, mild winters allow populations to explode. During outbreak years, they can defoliate vast stretches of forest and backyard trees alike.

The Damage They Do

Spongy moth caterpillars feed voraciously on leaves from May through July, sometimes stripping trees completely bare. While many hardwoods can survive one defoliation by regrowing leaves from stored energy, repeated defoliation in consecutive years, or a single defoliation on a tree already stressed by drought, disease, or other pests, can kill. Conifers like hemlock, pine, spruce, and cedar are particularly vulnerable because they cannot regrow needles as easily as hardwoods regrow leaves.

Signs of Infestation

• Fine silken threads in the air and on surfaces in early spring
• Dark, hairy caterpillars (up to 2 inches long) on trunks and branches
• A sound like light rainfall on dry days, of caterpillar droppings (frass) hitting the ground
• Dark brown, fuzzy egg masses on tree trunks, fences, and outdoor furniture in late summer
• Partial or complete defoliation of canopy by mid-summer

What Homeowners Can Do

• Remove egg masses from trees and outdoor surfaces in late summer and fall, scrape into soapy water
• Apply burlap flap traps around trunks to catch caterpillars as they move up and down during the day
• Hand-pick caterpillars (wear gloves) and drown in soapy water
• Consider targeted insecticide sprays for high-value trees during severe outbreaks
• Water stressed trees after defoliation to support leaf regrowth

If a tree has been defoliated in multiple consecutive years and is showing branch dieback, it may not recover. A professional assessment can help you decide whether trimming or removal is the right next step.

Oriental Bittersweet: The Vine That Strangles Trees

With over 600 confirmed reports across our four-county region, oriental bittersweet (Celastrus orbiculatus) is the single most commonly reported invasive species in the Hudson Valley. Unlike the insects above, it’s a vigorous woody vine that wraps around trees and literally strangles them.

Bittersweet grows thicker and tighter each year, constricting the flow of water and nutrients through the trunk. It also shades out leaves, adds weight that breaks branches, and makes trees more susceptible to wind damage and other stresses. If you see a thick vine spiraling up one of your trees, cutting it at the base during the dormant season and removing it can prevent further damage. But heavily infested trees may already be structurally compromised and warrant professional evaluation.

Ailanthus (Tree of Heaven) and the Spotted Lanternfly Connection

The ailanthus tree (Ailanthus altissima), also called Tree of Heaven, is itself an invasive species, but it matters to homeowners for a more urgent reason: it’s the preferred habitat and breeding ground for the spotted lanternfly, a destructive pest that feeds on fruit trees, hardwoods, and grapevines.

Why Remove Ailanthus?

Ailanthus grows aggressively (10 to 20 feet per year), reaching over 80 feet tall. It crowds out native species, sends up root sprouts up to 90 feet from the parent tree, and its root system can damage sidewalks, driveways, and foundations. Removing ailanthus trees eliminates spotted lanternfly habitat while also reclaiming your yard from an aggressive invader.

How to Identify Ailanthus

• Large compound leaves with 10 to 40 leaflets, each with a small bump (glandular tooth) near the base
• Crushed leaves smell strongly unpleasant, often described as rancid peanut butter
• Light gray, smooth bark on young trees; rougher with age
• Grows in clusters, often sprouting along roadsides, fence lines, and disturbed soil
• Female trees produce large clusters of reddish-brown winged seeds

Why Professional Removal Is Important

Cutting an ailanthus without treating the stump almost always triggers aggressive resprouting, a single tree can send up dozens of new shoots from its root system. Herbicide treatment, timed to late summer or fall when the tree is pulling nutrients into its roots, is usually necessary to kill the root network. This is not a DIY-friendly tree.

What to Plant Instead

Once ailanthus is removed, consider native alternatives like red maple, black cherry, hackberry, or serviceberry. These provide shade and beauty while supporting pollinators and local wildlife rather than invasive pests.

Why Invasive Species Make Trees Dangerous

All of these pests and invasive plants share one outcome: they weaken trees structurally from the inside out. A weakened tree is an unpredictable tree. Limbs that looked stable can snap without warning. Trunks that appeared solid may be hollow. Root systems that once anchored tons of wood can fail in a moderate windstorm.

The connection between invasive species and falling-tree injuries is real. Forests with high pest loads have more standing dead wood, more brittle limbs, and more sudden failures than healthy forests. Here in the Hudson Valley, where many properties are surrounded by mature trees that may be silently infested, the risk compounds every year.

Regular inspection and proactive management, whether that means treatment, trimming, or removal, is the most effective way to prevent an infested tree from becoming an emergency.

Worried About Invasive Pests on Your Property?

Expert Tree Service has been helping Hudson Valley homeowners protect their trees since 1936. We can identify infestations, recommend treatment where viable, and safely remove trees that have become structural hazards. Whether you’re dealing with ash borer damage, adelgid-weakened hemlocks, or an ailanthus colony, we have the equipment and experience to handle it.

Call us at 845-331-6782 for a consultation. We serve Ulster County, Dutchess County, Greene County, and Columbia County, and we’re available 24/7 for emergencies.

Deciding whether to remove a tree is one of the toughest calls a Hudson Valley homeowner can make. Maybe the old maple is leaning toward your roof. Maybe a massive oak is shading your pool into a swamp. Maybe last winter’s ice storm left a tree looking like it lost a fight.

Whatever the situation, you want answers to three questions: should this tree come down, can I do it myself, and will insurance help pay for it?

This guide covers all three. We’ve been helping homeowners across Ulster, Dutchess, Greene, and Columbia counties make these decisions since 1936, and we’ve distilled what we’ve learned into one comprehensive resource.

Trees Too Close to Your House: When Shade Becomes a Problem

Not every tree near a home is a hazard, but some are quietly causing damage you won’t notice until it’s expensive. Here in the Hudson Valley, our older housing stock (the median construction year in Kingston and Saugerties is 1938), combined with heavy rainfall and clay soils, makes this a bigger concern than in most regions.

How Trees Damage Foundations

A tree close to your home can cause problems in several ways. The canopy traps moisture against the siding and foundation, which prevents natural drying after rain. In areas with poorly draining clay or silt soils, common in the eastern lowlands around Saugerties and Catskill, this moisture lingers for days. Over time, that persistent dampness accelerates freeze-thaw cycles that crack masonry and shift foundations. The Hudson Valley averages around 110 freeze-thaw days per year, so even moderate moisture retention adds up.

Root systems create their own set of problems. Silver maples, willows, and poplars have aggressive roots that can infiltrate foundation cracks and underground plumbing. Even less aggressive species spread roots far beyond their visible canopy, seeking water wherever it collects.

How Close Is Too Close?

The safe distance depends on the tree’s mature size:

These distances help prevent both root intrusion and canopy-related moisture trapping. If your tree is within these ranges and you’re seeing signs like moss or algae along the foundation, mud that never dries near the perimeter, cracks in basement walls, or visible roots in foundation cracks, it may be time to act.

High-Risk Species Near Homes

Some species are especially problematic when planted close to a house. Silver maples, willows, and poplars all have aggressive, shallow root systems that seek out water lines and foundation cracks. Large oaks have enormous canopies and root networks that can dominate a yard. Softwoods like spruce and fir create dense shade with shallow roots. If any of these are within the minimum distances above, removal is usually the smart long-term move, especially on wet clay soil near an older home.

Trees Near Your Pool: Safety, Maintenance, and Comfort

Pools and trees can coexist, but there are several situations where removal makes life significantly easier and safer.

The most obvious concern is safety. Branches overhanging a pool or deck area can break during storms and fall on anyone below. Even healthy-looking limbs can have internal weaknesses that aren’t visible from the ground.

Then there’s maintenance. A tree next to a pool means a constant stream of leaves, twigs, seeds, and pollen in the water. That means clogged filters, more skimming, and higher chemical costs to keep the water balanced. Removing or trimming trees around the pool dramatically cuts down on the daily cleanup.

Temperature is another factor. Excessive shade can lower pool water temperatures enough to make swimming uncomfortable, particularly during the cooler bookend months of the season. Strategically removing one or two trees can extend your usable swim season by weeks.

Finally, tree roots can threaten your pool’s infrastructure. As roots grow, they can infiltrate underground plumbing, crack the pool shell, or heave surrounding deck pavement. By the time you see the damage above ground, the repair bill is already significant.

DIY Tree Removal vs. Hiring a Professional

Once you’ve decided a tree should come down, the next question is whether you can handle it yourself or need to bring in a crew.

When DIY Might Be Okay

A small tree, under about 15 feet tall with a trunk diameter under 6 to 8 inches, may be manageable with a handsaw or small chainsaw if it stands well away from power lines, structures, and other hazards, and there’s plenty of open space for it to fall. You’ll need the right tools (axe, saw, safety gear including helmet, goggles, gloves, and sturdy boots) and enough experience to make proper felling cuts and assess risks like dead limbs or hidden rot.

When You Absolutely Need a Professional

Call a licensed tree company any time the tree is taller than 15 feet, has a large trunk, extensive root system, or a heavy lean. The same applies when the tree is near your home, power lines, roads, driveways, or any structure. Diseased, rotting, or storm-damaged trees are unpredictable and dangerous and they can split, kick back, or fall in unexpected directions.

Professional crews bring equipment that makes the job safer and faster: cranes for trees in tight spaces, ropes and rigging for controlled lowering of heavy limbs, and stump grinding equipment. They also handle the post-removal logistics, such as wood disposal, site cleanup, and stump removal, so your property is ready for whatever comes next.

Hudson Valley Tree Removal Laws and Permits

Before you remove or significantly alter a tree, check your local town or village regulations. Many Hudson Valley municipalities regulate tree removal, even on private property, particularly near roadways where trees serve public-welfare and aesthetic purposes.

Key points to be aware of:

• Private property restrictions: Some towns regulate shade trees or trees near public streets, even if they’re on your land. Removal may require a permit.
• Dead or dangerous trees: Most towns allow immediate removal of clearly hazardous trees, though documentation may still be required.
• Permit applications: Where required, you’ll typically file an application with the town, sometimes with a fee and approval from a planning commission or tree board.
• Financial responsibility: Homeowners are generally responsible for the costs of maintaining or removing regulated trees on or near their property.

To avoid fines or disputes, contact your local planning department before starting work. Or skip the research entirely, and call us at 845-331-6782 and we’ll help you navigate the permit process for your specific town.

Will Insurance Cover Tree Removal?

This is one of the first questions homeowners ask after a tree comes down in a storm. The answer depends on your specific policy, but here’s the general framework.

Homeowners Insurance

Most homeowners policies will cover damage from a fallen tree if two conditions are met. First, the tree fell because of a “covered peril,” an event specifically listed in your policy, typically including ice storms, freezing rain, lightning, and high winds. If the tree fell in calm weather due to rot, age, disease, or neglect, it likely won’t be covered. Second, the damage must be to a “covered structure” named in your policy, such as your home, garage, or fence.

Beyond property damage, many policies also cover the cost of removing the fallen tree itself if it landed on a covered structure or is blocking your driveway or front entrance. However, if a tree falls in your yard and doesn’t hit anything, removal costs typically come out of your pocket.

Car Insurance

If a tree falls on your vehicle, comprehensive auto coverage generally reimburses you for the vehicle damage, again, provided the event was sudden and unexpected rather than caused by a known hazard. Unlike homeowners insurance, car insurance rarely covers the cost of removing the tree from around your vehicle.

The Case for Preventive Removal

Here’s the catch that trips up a lot of homeowners: insurance generally doesn’t cover preventive removal of a tree that hasn’t fallen yet, even if it’s obviously at risk. And if a tree falls due to neglect (rot you should have addressed, a known lean you ignored), your claim may be denied entirely. This is why regular maintenance and proactive removal of hazard trees is a smart financial investment, it’s almost always cheaper than the deductible plus uncovered costs after a disaster.

Why This Matters More in the Hudson Valley

Our region takes a beating every winter. Kingston averages 42 inches of snow per year, Catskill gets 44 inches, and Pine Plains can see over 52 inches. On top of the snow, we get ice storms, heavy rain, and strong winds that stress trees already weakened by pests, disease, and age.

That combination means Hudson Valley homeowners face tree emergencies more often than homeowners in milder climates. The snowfall accumulates on branches, the freeze-thaw cycles weaken wood and root systems, and one windstorm can turn a compromised tree into a property-damage event. Being proactive by evaluating trees before winter, removing obvious hazards, and keeping up with trimming is the best way to avoid emergency costs and insurance headaches.

Quick Decision Framework: Should This Tree Come Down?

If you’re still on the fence, run through these questions:

• Is the tree within the minimum safe distance of your home for its size? (See the table above.)
• Is the foundation showing signs of moisture damage, such as moss, cracks, persistent dampness?
• Are roots visible in foundation cracks, near plumbing, or heaving pavement?
• Is the tree overhanging your pool, deck, driveway, or a walkway where people gather?
• Is it a high-risk species (silver maple, willow, poplar) on wet or clay soil?
• Has the tree lost major limbs in recent storms or shown signs of disease or internal decay?
• Is the tree leaning, especially toward a structure?

If you answered yes to two or more of these, a professional evaluation is strongly recommended. If three or more, removal is likely the safest path forward.

Not Sure? We’ll Help You Decide.

Expert Tree Service has been helping Hudson Valley homeowners make these decisions since 1936. We’ll evaluate your tree, explain your options, and give you an honest recommendation, whether that’s removal, trimming, cabling, or simply leaving it alone.

Call us at 845-331-6782 for a consultation. We’re available 24/7 for emergencies across Ulster County, Dutchess County, Greene County, and Columbia County.

View our full range of tree services.

If you’ve noticed bare branches in June, mushrooms climbing up the trunk, or a slow lean that wasn’t there last year, you’re probably asking the same question hundreds of Hudson Valley homeowners ask us every season: is my tree dying, or can it be saved?

The answer depends on what you’re seeing and how early you catch it. Some trees that look terrible in spring are just slow to wake up. Others that appear perfectly healthy on the outside are already beyond saving, what arborists call “zombie trees.”

This guide pulls together nearly 90 years of field experience from Expert Tree Service in Saugerties to help you evaluate your trees, understand what the warning signs mean, and decide when it’s time to call a professional. We serve homeowners across Ulster, Dutchess, Greene, and Columbia counties, from Kingston and New Paltz to Rhinebeck, Catskill, and everywhere in between.

Dead or Just Dormant? Three Quick Tests

Every spring, we get calls from worried homeowners whose trees haven’t leafed out yet while the neighbors’ trees are already full and green. Before you panic, try these three tests:

The Scratch Test is the fastest way to check. Use a fingernail or pocket knife to scrape a small patch of bark off a young branch. If the layer underneath is green and moist, the branch is alive. If it’s brown and dry, that branch may be dead—but one dead branch doesn’t mean the whole tree is gone.

The Bud Check comes next. Look for small buds on the branches, even tiny ones that haven’t opened yet. Buds mean the tree is investing energy in new growth, which is a positive sign.

Finally, try the Flex Test. Gently bend a small twig. A living twig will flex and feel supple. A dead one snaps cleanly with a dry crack.

If it’s late May or early June and your tree fails all three tests, there’s a good chance it’s beyond saving. But if even one branch shows green, the tree may still be fighting.

Seven Warning Signs Your Tree Is in Serious Trouble

Some problems are obvious; others develop slowly over years. Here are the red flags our crews look for during every evaluation:

• Mushrooms or fungal growth at the base of the tree or along major roots. Fungi feed on decaying wood, so their presence usually means internal rot is already underway.
• Deep vertical cracks or splits in the trunk. Frost cracks and lightning damage can open pathways for disease and weaken the tree’s structural core.
• More than 50% of the crown is dead or dying. When over half the leaf canopy is gone, the tree can no longer produce enough energy through photosynthesis to sustain itself.
• Hollow or soft trunk areas. Press your hand against the trunk. If it feels spongy, gives way, or sounds hollow when you knock, internal decay may be advanced.
• Leaning with visible root upheaval. A tree that has recently shifted, especially with soil mounding on one side or exposed roots on the other, may be losing its anchor.
• Large dead limbs in the upper canopy. High deadwood is a falling hazard and often signals systemic decline rather than localized damage.
• Sparse or stunted leaf cover, especially at the crown. If your tree is producing fewer, smaller, or discolored leaves each year, it may be in a downward spiral.

If you’re seeing two or more of these signs, especially after a harsh winter or major storm, it’s time to get a professional assessment.

Zombie Trees: When a Tree Looks Healthy but Isn’t

A “zombie tree” is a tree that appears alive from the outside—it may even have leaves—but is already dying or dead internally. The term captures one of the most dangerous situations a homeowner can face, because there’s no visible warning before a heavy limb drops or the entire tree fails.

What Causes a Zombie Tree?

Several factors can hollow out or kill a tree from the inside while the outer bark still looks normal:

• Diseases and fungal infections such as Dutch elm disease, oak wilt, and various canker diseases that attack the vascular system
• Invasive pests like the emerald ash borer, woolly adelgid, elongate hemlock scale, and carpenter ants that bore into the wood
• Extreme weather events including high winds, lightning strikes, heavy snow loads, and ice storms that cause internal structural fractures
• Root damage from construction, soil compaction, or root rot that prevents the tree from absorbing water and nutrients
• Old age, as trees naturally weaken over decades, and their internal defenses slow down

How to Spot a Zombie Tree

Look for cracks or cavities in the trunk, dead or brittle branches mixed in with healthy-looking ones, fungus or mushrooms growing on the bark or near the base, a subtle lean that has worsened over time, a lack of new growth despite the season, and sparse leaf cover at the crown even when lower branches look fine.

If you suspect a zombie tree on your property, do not wait for it to drop a limb. Call us at 845-331-6782 for a professional evaluation.

Tree Cavities: When Are Holes in Your Tree Dangerous?

Tree cavities are common across the Hudson Valley, and they aren’t always a death sentence. Many trees live for decades with hollow trunks or large holes, as long as the remaining wood walls are structurally sound.

What Causes Tree Cavities?

Cavities form from improper pruning that leaves open wounds, mechanical damage from lawn equipment or vehicles, animal activity like woodpecker drilling, storm damage that strips bark, and fungal infections that cause internal rot.

Should You Fill a Tree Cavity?

No. Filling holes with cement, spray foam, or other materials traps moisture inside and accelerates decay. Trees have a natural defense called compartmentalization—they wall off damaged areas to stop rot from spreading. Filling a cavity disrupts that process.

When a Cavity Becomes Dangerous

A tree cavity is cause for concern when it sits at the base of the tree and extends into the root system, when it compromises more than about 30% of the trunk’s diameter, when you see visible decay or soft crumbly wood around the opening, when the cavity faces prevailing winds and could catch gusts like a sail, or when the tree is leaning and has extensive cavities on the lean side.

In these situations, professional intervention such as cabling, bracing, or removal may be necessary to keep your property and family safe.

Your Seasonal Tree Inspection Checklist

Early spring in the Hudson Valley, right as the snow melts, is the ideal time to evaluate your trees after winter’s punishment. Here’s what to check:

1. Inspect trunks and major branches for splits, cracks, or peeling bark. These could indicate disease, pest infestation, or frost damage.
2. Check leaf buds. Healthy buds should be firm and plump. Shriveled or discolored buds are a warning sign.
3. Look at emerging leaves for spots, holes, discoloration, or wilting. Abnormal leaves often signal fungal or bacterial problems.
4. Search for pest activity: holes in bark, sawdust-like frass, webs, or egg masses. Borers, caterpillars, and scale insects are all active in the Hudson Valley.
5. Evaluate overall canopy health. Is the tree filling in evenly? Sparse, lopsided, or thinning crowns may indicate root problems or internal disease.
6. Note winter damage. Look for branches bent or broken by ice, snow, or wind. Consider whether the tree weathered the season worse than its neighbors.
7. Check neighboring trees. Tree diseases spread between trees, so symptoms on one tree may predict trouble for nearby ones.
8. Take photos and keep records. Photographing the same tree each spring creates a visual timeline that makes year-over-year decline much easier to spot.

If anything looks off during your inspection, it’s worth getting a professional opinion before a small problem becomes an emergency.

How Regular Tree Trimming Prevents Decline

The best defense against a dying tree is regular professional maintenance. Many of the problems described in this guide, with zombie trees, dangerous cavities, disease spread, can be caught early or prevented entirely through routine trimming.

Trimming Removes Disease Before It Spreads

Professional trimming targets dead, diseased, or damaged branches before decay-producing fungi can penetrate deeper into the tree. Removing a single infected limb today can save the entire tree tomorrow.

Better Airflow Fights Fungal Infections

A dense, overgrown canopy traps moisture against branches and leaves, creating ideal conditions for fungal growth. Strategic thinning improves air circulation and allows branches to dry faster after rain, significantly reducing disease risk.

Structural Pruning Reduces Storm Damage

Trees with properly maintained structure are far less likely to lose major limbs in high winds or heavy snow. Regular trimming eliminates weak branch attachments and balances the canopy’s weight distribution, making the tree more resilient to the storms that frequently roll through the Hudson Valley.

The 25% Rule

Never remove more than 25% of a tree’s canopy in a single season. Over-pruning stresses the tree and can trigger a decline that’s worse than the original problem. This is one reason to hire professionals rather than attempt major trimming yourself.

When It’s Time to Remove a Tree

No one wants to lose a tree, especially one that’s been part of your property for decades. But there are situations where removal is the safest and smartest choice:

• The tree fails the scratch test on multiple major branches and shows no sign of new growth by early June
• More than 50% of the crown is dead, and the decline has been progressing over multiple seasons
• The trunk is structurally compromised with large cavities, deep cracks, or significant lean with root upheaval
• The tree has been identified as a zombie tree, i.e., alive on the outside, dead or dying inside
• Storm damage removed over 40% of the canopy with ragged, splintered breaks rather than clean ones
• The tree is dead and stands near your home, driveway, power lines, or areas where people walk

If you’re on the fence, a professional evaluation can help you make a confident decision. Sometimes a tree that looks far gone can be saved with the right care, and sometimes one that looks fine is a hidden hazard.

Common Questions About Sick Trees

Can a Tree Survive a Lightning Strike?

It depends on the severity. If only the outer bark is damaged and the tree is otherwise healthy, it may recover with time and proper care. But if lightning split the trunk or destroyed the vascular system, the tree may become structurally unsafe. Always have a lightning-struck tree evaluated by an arborist before assuming it will be fine.

Will Fertilizing or Watering Save a Dying Tree?

It can help—but only if the problem is nutrient deficiency or drought stress. If the underlying issue is pests, disease, or internal decay, fertilizing won’t fix it and may actually accelerate the decline by feeding the organisms causing the problem. A soil test or arborist consultation can tell you whether fertilization is worth the investment.

Stressed Tree vs. Dying Tree: What’s the Difference?

A stressed tree shows early warning signs like wilting leaves, minor dieback at branch tips, or stunted seasonal growth. With better care—proper watering, mulching, and pest management—a stressed tree can often recover. A dying tree, on the other hand, shows more permanent and severe symptoms: large dead branches, trunk rot, significant lean, or major leaf loss that doesn’t improve season to season.

Not Sure About Your Tree? We’ll Take a Look.

Expert Tree Service has been helping Hudson Valley homeowners protect their properties and their trees since 1936. Whether you need a quick evaluation, strategic trimming to extend your tree’s life, or safe removal of a hazard tree, our licensed crews are ready to help.

Call us at 845-331-6782 for a professional tree assessment. We’re available 24/7 for emergencies across Ulster County, Dutchess County, Greene County, and Columbia County.

Greene County sits at the crossroads of the Hudson Valley and the Catskill Mountains, and that geography creates tree removal situations you will not find anywhere else in the region. A property in the Village of Catskill at 200 feet of elevation deals with different species, different soil, and different storm patterns than a cabin in Windham at 2,000 feet. Understanding those differences is the first step toward making good decisions about the trees on your property.

At Expert Tree Service, we have provided tree removal, tree trimming, tree pruning, and emergency tree service in Greene County since 1936. Whether you need a professional tree service in Greene County for routine maintenance, a commercial tree service in Greene County for a resort or rental property, or a trimming and pruning service in Greene County to keep your trees healthy, we can help. Below, we cover what property owners should know about local tree removal regulations, the species that cause the most problems, and how to handle tree work in both the valley towns and the mountain communities.

Valley Towns vs. Mountain Properties: Why It Matters

Greene County spans a dramatic range of terrain. The river towns along the Hudson, including Catskill, Athens, and Coxsackie, sit at low elevations with relatively mild winters and a tree mix that looks similar to the rest of the Mid-Hudson Valley: Norway Maple, Sugar Maple, Silver Maple, and ornamental species like Callery Pear and Crabapple.

Head west into the mountains and everything changes. Communities like Windham, Hunter, and the hilltowns of Durham and Cairo sit at higher elevations where the growing season is shorter, winters are harsher, and the tree population shifts heavily toward conifers. Norway Spruce, Eastern Hemlock, White Pine, and Balsam Fir are far more common up there. These species create different removal challenges: conifers tend to be tall, narrow, and dense, and they hold snow and ice loads differently than hardwoods.

The practical impact for homeowners is that tree removal in the mountain towns often involves steeper terrain, longer access routes for equipment, and species that behave differently when they fail. A Sugar Maple in Catskill might lose a major limb in a windstorm. A Hemlock on a Windham hillside can uproot entirely when saturated ground combines with ice loading. If you are dealing with a tree near your home, our guide on when to remove a tree next to your house can help you assess the risk regardless of where in the county you live.

Storm Damage and Emergency Tree Removal in Greene County

Greene County catches weather from multiple directions. The valley towns get the same Hudson Valley storms that affect the rest of the region, but the mountain communities also see lake-effect moisture, heavy ice events, and significantly higher snowfall totals. The result is that storm damage tree removal is a major part of what we do in Greene County.

When a tree comes down on your house, blocks your driveway, or takes out a power line, you need a company that can respond fast. We provide 24/7 emergency tree service across Greene County, from Catskill to Windham. If a storm hits and you are wondering whether your insurance will cover the cleanup, our article on whether insurance covers tree removal explains what most policies pay for and what they do not.

Even after the immediate emergency is handled, storm-damaged trees that are still standing can be dangerous. Trees that have lost major limbs or been partially uprooted may look stable but can fail days or weeks later. We call these zombie trees, and they are one of the most underestimated hazards for property owners after a storm.

Tree Removal Regulations in Greene County

Like most of New York, Greene County does not have a single countywide tree ordinance. Regulations are set at the village and town level, and they vary. We maintain a comprehensive, regularly updated guide to tree removal laws across the Hudson Valley, but here is a summary of the two Greene County municipalities where we do the most work.

Catskill

The Village of Catskill became a New York State Tree City in 2019 and published a comprehensive tree inventory in 2021. Their tree code is among the stricter ones in the region: you must obtain written approval from the Village Board before removing, cutting, topping, or pruning any public tree, including park trees, roadside trees, and any tree growing on a street easement. The law requires that every effort be made to preserve trees and that the least severe approach be used.

For trees on private property, the restrictions are lighter, but homeowners should still verify before removing anything near the public right-of-way. You can reach the Catskill Village government at (518) 943-3830. Norway Maple is by far the most common tree in the village, followed by Bradford Pear and Silver Maple. Our full inventory guide covers Catskill’s top 11 trees with care and maintenance tips, and our Catskill tree removal page has details on the services we offer there.

Athens

Athens earned its Tree City USA designation in 2020 and is Greene County’s first incorporated village. The regulatory approach is somewhat different from Catskill’s: the Department of Public Works can prune branches of privately owned trees if they overhang streets or public rights-of-way, and they can remove trees after providing 60 days of notice. One notable requirement is that if you remove a tree, any stump larger than 12 inches in diameter must be ground to several inches below soil level and reseeded.

Sugar Maple is the most common tree in Athens, followed by Norway Maple and Callery Pear. Our guide to Athens’ 8 most common trees covers maintenance recommendations for all of them, and our Athens tree removal page has more on what we offer in the area.

Mountain and Rural Communities

Many of the hill towns and mountain communities in Greene County, including Windham, Hunter, Cairo, Durham, Greenville, and Coxsackie, do not have formal tree removal permit requirements for private property. However, properties near streams, wetlands, or state-managed lands may be subject to DEC regulations. Our article on DEC permit requirements for tree removal near waterways covers the current rules, which apply throughout the Hudson Valley and Catskills region, not just along Esopus Creek.

Trees That Cause the Most Problems in Greene County

Based on our experience working across the county, certain species generate the majority of removal and service calls.

Norway Maple. The most common tree in Catskill’s inventory with 91 specimens, and the second most common in Athens. These trees were planted throughout the valley towns in the mid-20th century but are now considered invasive in New York State. They are prone to verticillium wilt and structural failure, and many are reaching the end of their useful lifespan after 50 to 70 years. Norway Maple removal is one of our most frequent calls in Greene County.

Silver Maple. The third most common tree in Catskill, Silver Maples grow fast but produce weak wood that is highly susceptible to storm damage. Their shallow, aggressive root systems also cause problems with sidewalks, foundations, and septic systems. If a Silver Maple on your property has a large canopy overhanging your roof, it is worth having an arborist evaluate it before the next ice storm.

Callery (Bradford) Pear. Bradford Pear is the second most common tree in Catskill and Callery Pear is the third in Athens. These trees are notorious for splitting apart in storms due to their weak branch structure. With a lifespan of only about 30 years, many of the Bradford Pears planted in the 1990s are now at their most failure-prone age.

Eastern Hemlock. In the mountain towns, Eastern Hemlocks face a serious threat from the hemlock woolly adelgid, an invasive insect that has been spreading through the Catskills. Infected hemlocks weaken over several years before dying, and dead hemlocks on steep terrain become serious hazards. Our article on invasive species harming Hudson Valley trees covers this and other active pest threats in the region.

Ash Trees. Like the rest of the Hudson Valley, Greene County’s ash tree population has been devastated by the emerald ash borer. Dead standing ash trees are especially dangerous because the wood becomes brittle quickly after the tree dies. If you have ash trees on your property, read our post on zombie trees to understand why prompt removal matters.

For a broader look at disease patterns in the region, our article on the history of tree disease in the Hudson Valley provides useful context, and the gypsy moth outbreak article covers another active threat to Greene County forests.

Commercial Tree Service in Greene County

Greene County is not only residential. The county has a significant tourism economy, with ski resorts, wedding venues, campgrounds, farms, and Airbnb properties that all have tree maintenance and removal needs. A fallen tree blocking a resort access road or a dead tree leaning over a rental cabin creates liability and urgency that goes beyond typical homeowner situations.

We provide commercial tree service in Greene County for businesses and property managers who need reliable, responsive tree work. Our article on tree removal for businesses in the Hudson Valley covers the liability, permitting, and planning considerations that commercial clients should understand. While that article focuses on Ulster and Dutchess County, the same principles apply to Greene County commercial properties.

What to Look for in a Greene County Tree Service

Choosing the right tree removal company in Greene County matters more than in some other areas, because of the terrain and species involved. A crew that mostly works on flat suburban lots may not be equipped for a removal on a steep mountainside property. Here is what to ask:

Are you licensed and insured? New York does not require a statewide tree service license, which means there is no barrier to entry. Make sure any company you hire carries both liability insurance and workers’ compensation. Without workers’ comp, an injury on your property could become your financial problem.

Do you have the right equipment? Large removals near structures require crane service or bucket trucks. Mountain properties may need specialized access solutions. Ask how they plan to execute the job, not just what they will charge. Our article on crane-assisted tree removal explains why equipment matters for complex jobs.

Can you assess my tree, not just cut it down? A qualified arborist can tell you whether a tree needs removal or whether pruning, cabling, or treatment might save it. Not every tree that looks bad is a lost cause. Our guide to finding the best tree removal company covers the full list of questions to ask before hiring.

Best Time for Tree Removal in Greene County

For non-emergency removal, winter is often the best time. Frozen ground means less lawn damage from heavy equipment, leafless canopies give the crew better sight lines, and demand is lower so scheduling is easier. This is especially true in the mountain communities where the frozen ground can actually make steep-terrain access simpler. We explain the advantages in our article on why winter is the best time for tree removal.

Fall is also a smart time to schedule, especially if you want to deal with problem trees before winter storms. Our article on fall tree removal and trimming covers the reasoning. And for pruning and trimming schedules by species, see our guide on the best time to trim and maintain trees in the Hudson Valley.

Get a Free Estimate for Tree Removal in Greene County

Expert Tree Service has served Greene County since 1936. We provide tree removal, tree trimming and pruning, stump grinding, emergency storm cleanup, and commercial tree service across the county, from Catskill and Athens to the mountain communities of Windham, Hunter, Cairo, and beyond. We are licensed, insured, and available 24/7 for emergencies.

Call us at 845-331-6782 or contact us online to schedule a free on-site estimate. We will assess your trees, explain your options, and give you an honest recommendation.

A storm rolls through overnight. You wake up to find a fallen tree across your driveway, or worse, on your roof. It’s a situation Hudson Valley homeowners deal with every year, and how you respond in the first few hours matters.

This guide covers what to do immediately after storm damage, how to assess whether a tree is a safety hazard, what to expect from emergency tree removal, and how to navigate insurance claims. If you need help right now, call Expert Tree Service at 845-331-6782; we are available 24/7.

Step 1: Don’t Touch It

The instinct after a storm is to start cleaning up. Resist it. Fallen trees and broken limbs create hazards that aren’t always obvious:

• Power lines. If a tree or large branch has come down near or on power lines, treat the entire area as energized until Central Hudson or your utility confirms otherwise. Stay at least 30 feet back and call 911 if lines are down in a public area.
• Hanging branches. A tree that’s partially fallen or split may have large branches suspended overhead, called widow-makers, that can drop without warning. Don’t walk under damaged trees.
• Structural damage. If a tree has hit your house, don’t re-enter until you’ve confirmed the roof and walls are stable. A tree’s weight can compromise structural integrity that isn’t visible from the outside.

Assess from a safe distance and call a licensed arborist before anyone starts tree work.

Step 2: Document Everything Before Cleanup Begins

If you’re planning to file an insurance claim, and for significant storm damage, you should document the scene thoroughly before any tree removal or cleanup begins.

• Photograph the fallen trees, broken limbs, and all property damage from multiple angles
• Note the date and time of the storm
• Don’t move debris or begin repairs until you’ve spoken with your insurance company

Most homeowner’s insurance policies cover storm damage tree removal when the tree has damaged a structure, like your house, garage, fence, or car. If a tree fell in your yard without hitting anything, coverage is less certain and varies by policy. Call your insurance company early and ask specifically what documentation they need before work begins.

Step 3: Assess the Hazard

Not every fallen tree is an emergency, and not every emergency looks dramatic. Here’s how to think about urgency:

Immediate emergency (call now):

• Tree on or through the roof
• Tree blocking the only exit from your property
• Hanging branches over a frequently used area
• Any situation involving power lines
• A hazardous tree visibly leaning toward a structure after high winds

Urgent but not immediate:

• Tree across the driveway with no structural damage
• Large branches down in the yard
• Split trunk on a tree near the house that’s still standing

Can wait for a scheduled appointment:

• Storm damage tree that fell entirely in the yard away from structures
• Minor broken limbs with no fall risk

Calling a tree expert for an assessment is always the right call when you’re unsure. A tree risk assessment from a trained eye takes minutes and tells you definitively whether you’re dealing with a safety hazard.

Step 4: Understand What Emergency Tree Removal Actually Involves

Emergency tree removal is not the same as standard tree removal. The crew is responding to an active hazard, often in wet conditions, sometimes at night, with equipment access complicated by the tree’s position. Here’s what to expect:

Rigging and sectional removal: When a tree has fallen against a structure, it can’t simply be cut at the base and dropped. Arborists work in sections from the top down, using ropes and rigging to control where each piece lands and prevent further damage to the roof, walls, or surrounding property.

Power line coordination: If the tree is near power lines, the tree service may need to coordinate with your utility before work can begin. This adds time but is non-negotiable for safety.

Stump grinding: Emergency removal typically addresses the tree itself. Stump grinding is usually scheduled as a separate follow-up visit once the immediate hazard is cleared.

Debris removal: A full-service tree removal includes chipping branches and hauling away debris.

Step 5: Think About What Caused It

After the immediate storm damage is cleared, it’s worth understanding why the tree failed. Hudson Valley homeowners deal with a specific set of tree care conditions:

Root rot and internal decay: A tree can look healthy from the outside while its core is compromised. Trees that fail in moderate storms, and not hurricane-force winds, often had internal decay that went undetected. A post-storm inspection of nearby trees by a certified arborist can identify similar risks before the next severe weather event.

Structural defects: Tight branch angles, co-dominant stems, and included bark are structural weaknesses that develop over years. Proper pruning earlier in a tree’s life prevents many of the splits and failures that become emergency tree removal calls. If your remaining trees haven’t been assessed in several years, now is a good time.

Hazardous trees near structures: If a fallen tree was close to your house, look at what’s still standing nearby. Power lines, rooflines, and high-traffic areas should be clear of trees with visible defects, deadwood, or signs of disease.

We’ve Served the Hudson Valley Since 1936

Expert Tree Service has been handling emergency tree removal and storm damage cleanup across Ulster, Dutchess, Columbia, and Greene Counties for nearly 90 years. We’re based in Saugerties, which means fast response times throughout the region, and we’re available 24 hours a day, 7 days a week for storm emergencies.

We serve homeowners in Kingston, Poughkeepsie, Rhinebeck, Red Hook, Catskill, New Paltz, Ellenville, Germantown, Clermont, Rosendale, Pawling, and the surrounding areas.

Call 845-331-6782 any time, or fill out our contact form for non-emergency tree service requests.

Trees are woven into the identity of Saugerties, and our tree canopy here is one of the defining features of the landscape. In 2013, the Town of Saugerties commissioned a formal street tree inventory, which is a sign of how seriously the community takes its urban forest. Having served Saugerties and the surrounding area since 1936, Expert Tree Service has cared for just about every species on this list.

Here are the most common trees you’ll find in Saugerties, along with tips on how to care for them.

Need help maintaining or removing a tree in Saugerties? Call us at 845-331-6782 or visit our tree removal and trimming services page for Saugerties.

1. Eastern White Pine (Pinus strobus)

The Eastern White Pine is one of the most recognizable trees in Saugerties. It’s the tallest native conifer in the Northeast, and mature specimens can reach 100 feet or more.

White Pines are susceptible to white pine weevil, which causes the central leader to wilt and die back, and to white pine blister rust, which appears as orange pustules on branches. They’re also sensitive to road salt and air pollution, so if yours is near a road and showing needle browning, salt stress may be the culprit. Regular inspections, proper siting away from salt spray, and prompt removal of weevil-damaged leaders will keep your White Pine healthy for decades.

2. Red Maple (Acer rubrum)

Red Maple is one of the most widely distributed trees in the Northeast and a fixture in Saugerties yards and streetscapes. Its early red flowers signal the end of winter, and its fall foliage is among the most vivid in the region.

While adaptable, Red Maples are vulnerable to the Red Maple Borer and to Verticillium wilt, a soilborne fungal disease that causes sudden branch dieback. Their surface root systems are easily damaged by lawn equipment, so mulching around the base is one of the best things you can do for a Red Maple. Just don’t make a mulch volcano! Avoid heavy pruning in late summer, when fresh cuts can invite fungal infection.

3. Black Cherry (Prunus serotina)

Black Cherry is a fast-growing native hardwood common throughout Ulster County. It produces clusters of small white flowers in spring and dark fruit in late summer that wildlife (especially birds) depend on heavily.

Eastern tent caterpillar is the most common pest concern for Black Cherry, forming silken tents in branch forks in early spring. These are more unsightly than dangerous in most cases, but heavy infestations can defoliate a tree and weaken it over time. Black Cherry is also prone to cherry leaf spot, a fungal disease that causes yellowing and early leaf drop. Pruning for good airflow and removing tent caterpillar nests before they expand are the main maintenance tasks.

4. Pitch Pine (Pinus rigida)

Pitch Pine is a tough, fire-adapted native that thrives on the rocky, sandy soils common in parts of the Saugerties area. It’s one of the few trees that can regenerate after fire, sprouting from its trunk and roots.

Pitch Pines are generally low-maintenance compared to other pines, but they’re susceptible to the southern pine beetle in stressed conditions and to pitch canker, a fungal disease that causes resinous lesions on branches and trunk. Their irregular, open form means they rarely need structural pruning, with the main concern being removing dead branches that can become projectiles in wind events.

5. Eastern Hemlock (Tsuga canadensis)

Eastern Hemlock is one of the most ecologically important trees in the Hudson Valley, providing dense year-round shade and critical habitat along stream banks. Many of the Hemlocks along the Esopus Creek are old-growth specimens that have stood for well over a century.

The hemlock woolly adelgid is the defining threat to this species throughout the Northeast. This tiny invasive insect coats the undersides of branches with white, woolly egg masses and can kill an untreated Hemlock within a few years. If you have Hemlocks on your property, inspect the undersides of branches annually and contact an arborist at the first sign of infestation. Treatment options exist and are most effective early.

6. White Ash (Fraxinus americana)

White Ash is a large, stately hardwood that has historically been one of the dominant canopy trees in Saugerties and throughout the Hudson Valley. Unfortunately, the emerald ash borer, which is an invasive beetle first detected in New York in 2009, has devastated ash populations across the region.

If you have a White Ash on your property, it’s worth having it assessed. Untreated ashes in infested areas have a high mortality rate, and a dead ash becomes a hazard tree quickly, as the wood degrades fast and branches become unpredictable. Preventive insecticide treatments exist and can protect high-value trees, but timing and application method matter. Call us for an assessment before the tree shows advanced symptoms.

7. American Beech (Fagus grandifolia)

American Beech is one of the most beautiful trees in the Hudson Valley forest, with its smooth silver-gray bark and golden fall foliage. It’s common in the wooded areas surrounding Saugerties and occasionally appears as a yard tree.

Beech bark disease, caused by a combination of a scale insect and a fungal infection, is spreading through the region and has killed significant numbers of mature beeches. Look for crusty, rough patches on otherwise smooth bark, as that is the signature symptom. There is no cure for beech bark disease, but professional pruning can extend a tree’s life and reduce hazard. Additionally, beeches have shallow roots that are easily damaged by soil compaction, so avoid heavy equipment near the drip line.

8. Staghorn Sumac (Rhus typhina)

Staghorn Sumac is more shrub than shade tree in most settings, but it can reach 15-25 feet and provides some of the most spectacular fall color in the region, with deep reds and oranges that rival any maple. It’s common along roadsides, field edges, and disturbed areas throughout Saugerties.

Sumac spreads aggressively through root suckers and can form dense thickets if left unmanaged. It’s relatively pest and disease resistant, but verticillium wilt can occasionally affect it. The main management task is containing spread, so mowing or cutting suckers at the base is effective. Sumac is short-lived by tree standards, so older specimens may need removal as they decline.

9. Northern Red Oak (Quercus rubra)

Northern Red Oak is one of the most important timber and wildlife trees in the Northeast. In Saugerties, large specimens appear in older neighborhoods and along woodland edges. Its acorns are a critical food source for deer, turkeys, and dozens of songbird species.

Red Oaks are generally hardy but susceptible to oak wilt, a lethal fungal disease that has been spreading in New York. Oak wilt moves through root grafts between neighboring trees and through bark beetles, so avoid pruning oaks from April through July when beetle activity peaks and the fungus spreads most readily. Red Oaks are also prone to gypsy moth defoliation during outbreak years; a healthy tree can usually survive one or two defoliations but repeated events weaken it significantly.

10. Tree of Heaven (Ailanthus altissima)

Tree of Heaven is an invasive species originally from China that has colonized roadsides, vacant lots, and disturbed ground throughout Saugerties and the broader Hudson Valley. It grows extraordinarily fast, up to 6 feet per year, and and produces chemicals in its roots that inhibit the growth of native plants.

Despite its name, Tree of Heaven is a significant nuisance. It provides minimal wildlife value, its wood is brittle and prone to storm damage, and it spreads aggressively through seeds and root sprouts. If you have one on your property, removal is generally recommended, but it needs to be done carefully. Cutting without treating the stump will result in vigorous resprouting. Expert Tree Service can remove Tree of Heaven and treat the stump to prevent regrowth.

When you’re facing a challenging tree removal in Kingston, Poughkeepsie, or the larger Hudson Valley, you might be picturing chainsaws and ropes. But for truly tricky situations, there’s a far more advanced, safer, and often more cost-effective solution: crane-assisted tree removal.

When a crane is involved, tree removal can be a strategic, precise operation that protects your property and gets the job done right.

The Hudson Valley’s Unique Tree Challenges: Why Standard Removal Often Falls Short

The Hudson Valley is renowned for its stunning landscapes, often dotted with mature, majestic trees. While beautiful, these older trees can pose significant challenges when they need to be removed. Think about that towering oak leaning precariously over your historic farmhouse, or the ancient maple intertwined with power lines.

Traditional removal methods, which involve climbers segmenting the tree branch by branch and lowering pieces with ropes, become incredibly complex, time-consuming, and risky in these scenarios. The sheer size of the trees, their proximity to structures, and the often-uneven terrain make standard approaches inefficient and, frankly, dangerous. This is where the power and precision of a crane become indispensable.

When Every Branch Needs Precision: The Unbeatable Advantage of Crane-Assisted Tree Removal

Imagine a giant, gentle hand lifting massive sections of a tree with surgical precision. That’s the essence of crane-assisted removal. It transforms a high-risk, labor-intensive task into a controlled, efficient operation.

Safety First, Always: Protecting Your Home and Our Crew

This is paramount. With a crane, our crew stays largely on the ground, away from the immediate danger zone. The crane’s operator, in constant communication with the ground crew, meticulously lifts and maneuvers large sections of the tree.

This drastically reduces the risk of injury to our team and, crucially, eliminates the chance of heavy branches falling uncontrollably onto your home, fence, or landscaping. It’s about taking the guesswork out of gravity.

Efficiency That Saves You Time and Money

You might think a crane sounds expensive, but consider the alternative. Manual removal of a large, complex tree can take days, requiring a larger crew and more specialized rigging. A crane can often accomplish the same job in a matter of hours. Less time on site means reduced labor costs and less disruption to your daily life. It’s a classic example of how a more advanced tool can lead to overall savings.

Accessing the Inaccessible: No Tree is Too Tricky

Got a tree tucked away behind a garage, over a delicate garden, or nestled precariously on a steep slope? Traditional methods might require extensive clearing of the area, or even bringing in heavy equipment that could damage your property. A crane’s reach allows us to pluck tree sections directly from their location, often bypassing obstacles entirely. It’s like having a superpower to reach where no human can safely go.

Minimal Impact, Maximum Care: Preserving Your Property

One of the biggest concerns with tree removal is the potential damage to your yard. Standard removals often involve dragging large logs across your lawn, leaving ruts and compaction. With a crane, massive sections are lifted clear of your property and gently placed directly onto a designated drop zone or a waiting chipper. This drastically reduces disturbance to your landscaping, leaving your property looking its best, even after a major tree removal.

The “Crane-Ready” Difference: What to Look for in a Tree Removal Company

Not all tree companies are equipped, or experienced, for crane-assisted removal. When seeking this specialized service, here’s what to prioritize:

Experience with Complex Scenarios

Look for a company that has a proven track record of handling intricate crane removals, especially in the unique terrain and property styles of the Hudson Valley. Ask for examples or case studies of similar projects they’ve successfully completed.

The Right Equipment for the Job

Ensure the company owns and maintains modern, well-serviced cranes appropriate for the size and location of your tree. An older, ill-maintained crane can pose risks. They should also have the full complement of rigging and safety gear required for crane operations.

Licensed, Insured, and Trained Professionals

This is non-negotiable. Verify that the company is fully licensed and insured, particularly for high-risk operations involving heavy machinery. Crucially, confirm that their crane operators are certified and their ground crew is specifically trained in crane-assisted tree removal protocols.

Ready to Tackle Your Toughest Tree? Get a Crane-Assisted Estimate Today

Don’t let a challenging tree situation become a headache or a hazard. For those demanding tree removals in the Hudson Valley, crane assistance offers an unparalleled combination of safety, efficiency, and precision. If you have a tree that seems impossible to remove, it’s time to consider the “crane-ready” advantage. Call us at 845-331-6782 or contact us today for an estimate and let us show you how we can safely and expertly clear your property, minimizing impact and maximizing peace of mind.

The majestic presence of large Hudson Valley trees can enhance your property’s beauty and provide invaluable shade. However, there comes a time when these towering giants transition from cherished assets to potential liabilities, necessitating their removal.

This comprehensive guide aims to break down the process of large tree removal, offering homeowners a clear, step-by-step understanding from initial assessment to the final steps. Our goal is to equip you with the knowledge needed to make informed decisions, ensuring the safety of your property and the efficiency of the removal process.

Are you debating whether it’s time to take down your large tree? Give us a call at 845-331-6782 and we can talk it over; it’s possible that your tree just needs some trimming.

Understanding the Necessity: When is Large Tree Removal Justified?

Deciding to remove a large tree is rarely a decision taken lightly. It often involves a blend of safety concerns, practical considerations, and an understanding of the tree’s overall health. But how do you determine if removal is truly necessary?

Identifying Risks: Is Your Tree a Hazard?

One of the primary drivers for large tree removal is the identification of potential hazards. Is your tree leaning precariously towards your home, a neighbor’s property, or high-traffic areas? Are there large, dead branches poised to fall, especially during storms? These are not mere aesthetic issues; they represent significant safety risks. A severely compromised tree can cause extensive property damage, injuries, or even fatalities. Look for signs such as significant cracks in the trunk or major limbs, deep cavities, or exposed roots that indicate instability.

Evaluating Tree Health: Beyond the Visible

Beyond obvious structural risks, the underlying health of a tree plays a crucial role. A tree may appear healthy on the surface but be in severe decline internally. Signs of poor health include extensive deadwood, fungal growth (mushrooms or conks) on the trunk or at the base, sparse foliage, discolored leaves, or an overall lack of vigor. Pests and diseases can also severely compromise a tree’s integrity, making it brittle and prone to failure. An ailing tree not only poses a risk but can also hinder the growth of surrounding vegetation.

Aesthetic and Property Considerations: Practical vs. Emotional

Sometimes, the justification for removal is less about immediate danger and more about practical property management or aesthetic considerations. Is a tree blocking essential sunlight to your garden or solar panels? Are its roots encroaching on your foundation, septic system, or underground utility lines? Or perhaps the tree has simply outgrown its space, overwhelming the landscape or obstructing desirable views. While the emotional attachment to a long-standing tree can be strong, homeowners must weigh these practical concerns against sentimentality for the long-term health and safety of their property.

Why Large Trees Fail in the Hudson Valley

Large trees in the Hudson Valley face a unique combination of stressors that make failure more common than many homeowners realize. From Kingston and Saugerties to Poughkeepsie, mature maples, oaks, ash, and pines are regularly exposed to saturated soils, high wind events, ice storms, and heavy, wet spring snow that adds tremendous weight to aging limbs. When the ground is soaked and 50–60 mph gusts roll through Ulster, Dutchess, or Greene County, even a healthy-looking 60 to 80-foot tree can uproot or split without much warning.

Compounding the issue, decades of invasive pests and regional disease pressure, including emerald ash borer, spongy moth outbreaks, fungal decay, and internal trunk cavities, have quietly weakened many large trees from the inside out. A tree may appear stable in summer, but hidden rot, root damage, or structural stress from repeated storms can turn it into a serious hazard. That’s why large tree removal in the Hudson Valley is often less about aesthetics and more about proactively preventing property damage and protecting your home before the next major storm hits.

The Professional Assessment: Your First Step Towards Safe Removal

Once you suspect a large tree may need removal, the next critical step is to engage with professionals. This is not a DIY project; the complexities and inherent dangers demand expert intervention.

Consulting Certified Arborists: Why Expertise Matters

A certified arborist possesses the specialized knowledge and experience to accurately assess a tree’s health, structural integrity, and potential risks. They can diagnose diseases, identify pest infestations, and evaluate the overall condition of the tree, providing an objective recommendation based on scientific principles. Their expertise extends beyond simple removal; they can advise on alternative solutions, such as pruning or cabling, if removal is not the only option. Don’t underestimate the value of their judgment.

On-Site Evaluation: What Does a Professional Look For?

During an on-site evaluation, an arborist will meticulously inspect the tree from its crown to its root flare. They’ll look for signs of disease, decay, structural defects, and insect activity. They will also assess the tree’s proximity to structures, utility lines, and other potential obstacles. This comprehensive assessment allows them to determine the safest and most efficient removal strategy, factoring in access points, drop zones, and any necessary specialized equipment.

Permitting and Regulations: Navigating Local Requirements

Tree removal laws in the Hudson Valley vary widely from town to town, and in some cases, even between a village and the surrounding town. In places like Kingston, New Paltz, Rhinebeck, and Catskill, trees located within public rights-of-way, or even within a certain distance from the road, may require permits before removal. Some municipalities impose fines for removing city-owned trees, while others are considering expanded regulations for large “heritage” trees on private property. Because rules change and enforcement can differ depending on location, homeowners should always verify local requirements before cutting down a large tree.

In many communities across Ulster, Dutchess, Columbia, and Greene Counties, the distinction between public and private trees is especially important. Trees located between the sidewalk and street are often municipally owned, and removing them without approval can result in significant penalties. Even when a permit is not required, certain situations, such as trees near public roads, utility lines, or designated conservation areas, may involve additional oversight. Working with an experienced local tree service ensures that removal is handled properly, safely, and in compliance with local regulations.

The Removal Process: A Step-by-Step Breakdown

Large tree removal is a highly coordinated operation, demanding precision, specialized equipment, and unwavering attention to safety.

Pre-Removal Preparations: Safety First

Before the first cut is made, the removal team will secure the work area. This involves cordoning off the zone to prevent unauthorized access, protecting nearby structures with plywood or tarps, and clearing away any obstacles. Utility companies may also be contacted to temporarily shut off power if lines are in close proximity. This meticulous preparation is critical to mitigating risks.

Strategic Sectioning: Deconstructing Large Trees Safely

Large trees are rarely felled in one piece, especially in residential areas. Instead, they are carefully deconstructed through a process called sectioning. Arborists, often utilizing climbing gear or crane assistance, will ascend the tree, systematically cutting and lowering limbs and trunk sections. Each piece is meticulously controlled, either through ropes and rigging systems or by being carefully placed by a crane, to ensure it falls within the designated drop zone without damaging surrounding property. This step requires immense skill and experience.

Ground Crew Operations: Managing the Descent

Simultaneously, a ground crew plays an equally vital role. They manage the ropes, guide falling sections, and immediately process the removed wood. This often involves chipping smaller branches for mulch and cutting larger trunk sections into manageable pieces for transport or firewood. Efficient ground operations are essential for maintaining safety, clearing the site, and ensuring a smooth workflow.

Crane-Assisted Large Tree Removal in the Hudson Valley

In urban or dense neighborhoods, especially in Kingston, Poughkeepsie or within village downtown area, there simply isn’t enough open space to safely drop large sections of a 70 or 80-foot tree. Homes are closer together, driveways are narrow, and utility lines often run directly through the canopy. In these situations, crane-assisted tree removal becomes the safest and most efficient solution. Instead of lowering dozens of heavy sections piece by piece over rooftops and fences, a crane can lift major trunk sections vertically and move them away from structures in a controlled, precise manner, reducing risk and shortening the overall job time.

Crane work is also common throughout Ulster County where properties sit on slopes or steep driveways make equipment access challenging. Hillside homes in Saugerties, Woodstock, and along the Route 28 corridor often require careful planning, specialized rigging, and coordinated ground crews. Older neighborhoods frequently require tight sectioning to protect stone foundations, gardens, and neighboring properties. When space is limited or terrain adds complexity, crane-assisted removal provides the safest way to handle large tree removal without unnecessary damage to your landscape or home.

Stump Grinding: The Final Act of Removal

Once the tree is down, the stump remains. While some homeowners opt to leave it, stump grinding offers a complete and cleaner solution.

Why Grind the Stump? Beyond Aesthetics

Stump grinding goes beyond mere aesthetics. A remaining stump can be an eyesore, a tripping hazard, and a breeding ground for pests like termites and carpenter ants. It can also sprout new growth (suckers), requiring ongoing maintenance, and can make replanting or landscaping in that area challenging. Grinding effectively eliminates these issues, providing a clean slate for your landscape.

The Stump Grinding Process: What to Expect

A specialized stump grinder, a powerful machine equipped with a rotating cutting head, is used to chip away at the stump and its main root flare, several inches below ground level. The process generates a large amount of wood chips and soil. Depending on the stump’s size and location, the process can take anywhere from an hour to several hours.

Post-Grinding Cleanup and Site Restoration

After grinding, the area will be filled with wood chips and soil. The removal team will typically rake the area, clearing away the bulk of the debris. You’ll then have a choice: either use the wood chips as mulch elsewhere on your property or have them removed. The remaining cavity can be filled with fresh topsoil, preparing the area for new plantings or grass.

Cost Considerations: What Influences the Price of Large Tree Removal?

The cost of large tree removal can vary significantly, making it one of the homeowner’s primary concerns. Understanding the factors at play will help you budget effectively.

Factors Affecting Cost: Size, Location, and Complexity

The most significant factors influencing cost are the tree’s size, its location, and the complexity of the removal. Taller, wider trees require more time, equipment, and manpower. Trees located in confined spaces, close to structures, or near power lines present higher risks and necessitate more intricate rigging and safety precautions, thus increasing the cost. Difficult access to the tree, requiring specialized equipment or manual carrying of debris, will also add to the expense.

Obtaining Quotes: The Importance of Comparison

It is highly recommended to obtain at least three detailed quotes from different certified arborists. Ensure each quote specifies exactly what services are included (e.g., removal, chipping, stump grinding, debris hauling, site cleanup). Beware of unusually low bids, as they may indicate a lack of proper insurance, experience, or necessary equipment.

Hidden Costs to Anticipate

While a detailed quote should cover most aspects, be aware of potential hidden costs. These could include additional charges for emergency removal outside of regular hours, permits, traffic control, or extensive site restoration beyond basic cleanup. Always clarify these possibilities with your chosen provider upfront.

Ensuring Safety and Liability: What Homeowners Need to Know

Safety is paramount in large tree removal. As the homeowner, you have a role in ensuring that the work is performed safely and that you are protected from liability.

Insurance and Licensing: Protecting Your Property and Yourself

Always verify that the tree removal company is fully insured and licensed. This includes general liability insurance, which covers damage to your property or a neighbor’s property, and worker’s compensation insurance, which protects the crew in case of injury. Request to see current certificates of insurance directly from their insurance provider, not just a copy provided by the company. Without adequate insurance, you could be held financially responsible for any accidents or damages.

Communication with the Removal Team: Clear Expectations

Maintain open and clear communication with the removal team before, during, and after the project. Discuss the scope of work, expected timelines, access routes, and any specific concerns you may have. Ensure you understand their safety protocols and emergency procedures. Clear expectations prevent misunderstandings and contribute to a smoother, safer operation.

Post-Removal Care: Reclaiming Your Landscape

The removal of a large tree often leaves a void in the landscape. Thoughtful post-removal care can help you reclaim and revitalize your property.

Soil Preparation and Replenishment

After stump grinding, the soil in the area may be compacted or depleted of nutrients. To prepare for new plantings, mix in fresh topsoil, compost, and other organic matter to improve soil structure and fertility. This replenishment is crucial for the success of any new vegetation.

Replanting Options and Landscaping Ideas

Consider the space created by the tree’s absence. This is an opportunity to redesign a section of your landscape. You might choose to plant a new, smaller tree species appropriate for your property size and climate, create a flower bed, install a patio, or simply expand your lawn. Consult with a landscape designer or arborist for advice on suitable replacements and design ideas that align with your aesthetic and practical needs.

Making Informed Decisions for Your Property

Large tree removal is a significant undertaking that requires careful consideration, professional expertise, and a commitment to safety. By understanding the justifications for removal, engaging certified arborists, navigating local regulations, and overseeing the process with diligence, homeowners can ensure a safe, efficient, and ultimately successful outcome. Remember, proactive assessment and informed decision-making are your best tools in managing the natural beauty and inherent risks that come with owning a property graced by large, magnificent trees.

Tivoli has a well-earned reputation as a bucolic village with walkable streets and strong connections to the Hudson River and the surrounding hills. According to their own Local Waterfront Revitalization Program’s founding document, trees are a major part of the historic fabric of the community.

“The Village can… provide street amenities that will improve the appearance of the community. Planting new trees and caring for older trees is an example of such activity.”

The document mourns the loss of the great elm trees that “once lined the community’s streets.”

Tivol is also known for providing first 60 legendary crabapple trees that once filled the Central Park Conservancy Garden. Some of the original trees are still believed to alive in the park.

In 2023, the Village of Tivoli Tree Committee undertook a tree inventory of the public trees that now line its public property. The elms of yesteryear have been replaced with the following trees, which we’ve tallied up from their report along with a synopsis of common things to look out for with each species.

1. Callery Pear (Pyrus calleryana) – 17 Trees

Callery pears are known for fast growth, early spring flowers, and a high tolerance for compacted soils in busy areas. They can be prone to a weak branch structure, so pruning every 2-3 years is critical. They are especially weak with heavy snow or ice storms.

2. Sugar Maple (Acer saccharum) – 10 Trees

Sugar maples are iconic native Hudson Valley trees that provide beautiful colors in the fall. They can be sensitive to salt and drought. It’s great to water them deeply in dry summers between July and August. They need a minimal amount of pruning to remove deadwood.

3. Katsura (Cercidiphyllum) – 5 Trees

Katsura are known for their heart-shaped leaves and spectacular fall colors. They love moisture, so like the sugar maple, they do well with summer waterings. They also prefer partial sun instead of a blasting full afternoon sun. They can respond well to some light winter pruning. These are great for shady village streets.

4. Redbud (Cercis canadensis) – 5 Trees

The eastern redbud is known for early magenta flowers and are beloved by pollinators. They can have shorter lifespan than larger trees. It’s important to water them regularly for their first two or three years, and to remove crossing or crowded branches early on.

5. Serviceberry (Amelanchier) – 5 Trees

The serviceberry features spring flowers, edible berries, and are a magnet for wildlife, which can be good or bad. They like occasional pruning to improve air circulation.

6. Dogwood Spp. (Cornus) – 4 Trees

Dogwoods are known for their classic spring flowers and layered branches. They can be sensitive to stress and disease, so make sure to water them during droughts. They really could use a shady, calmer side street.

Do you need help with your trees in Tivoli, NY? At Expert Tree Service, we’re here to help you extend the life of your tree with trimming and maintenance services, or if it’s time, we can safely remove your tree without leaving a trace on your property. Give us a call at 845-331-6782 to get started.